Golden Retriever - New Work by Lauren Lysaght

Ain't it funny how an old broken bottle Looks just like a diamond ring (John Prine, Far From Me).

Golden Retriever was conceived while Lauren was looking at Vincent Meylan’s Christie's The Jewellery Archive Revealed, a beautifully illustrated volume featuring historical jewellery auctioned by Christie's. Many of the pieces had been owned by royalty and aristocrats and Lauren noted that "the jewels were sumptuous, and I coveted many of them". But the more she read, the more she believed that a certain amount of skulduggery probably went on to get that jewellery to the auction house.

One such piece, a signum of the Order of the Holy Ghost created from gold, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires and pearls had been worn by Mary Queen of Scots on the morning of her execution in 1587. According to records, Christie's offered the work for sale in March 1767. The backstory stated that the queen gave the jewel to a Lady in Waiting, and it remained in her family until offered for sale by ‘a gentleman retired into the country’. Details also noted that the ‘well authenticated’ piece, which sold for 12 guineas, had been worn ‘by the King of Malta’.

As she read about the ‘dubious path' the jewellery of the beheaded queen took to the auction house, the more Lauren began thinking about which objects are defined as desirable, and how we perceive ‘preciousness’. ‘Perception is a personal thing’ and the things that are made with love and held dear to ourselves, are not necessarily those that are valued by a patriarchal society.

'Fugazi/fake' jewellery is considered by many to be second-class and yet there is something very real and authentic about the making and personal value of that jewellery compared to expensive jewels. Most of Lauren’s work involves a transformation of a humble material into an exhibition finished piece and when she recently came upon a roll of vintage gold velvet, the 'fugazi/real' work began.